These instructions are meant as generic step-by-step instructions to help guide you through the installation of your sprocket set. For model specific direction on how to perform each task, and the proper procedure for doing so, please refer to your owners' or service manual for your model motorcycle.
You will need the proper tools to remove bodywork, countershaft cover, rear wheel, correct socket for the countershaft nut, and a stand or safe method of supporting the rear wheel off the ground.

1. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ALL THE WAY THROUGH BEFORE BEGINNING!

2. Lift the rear of the motorcycle with an approved motorcycle rearstand.

3. Remove your left side bodywork and any components that block access to the countershaft cover.

4. Remove the countershaft (front) sprocket cover. This may require the removal of the shift linkage. If so, keep the shift linkage attached to the pedal side because you may need to reinstall it temporarily throughout this process.

5. Loosen the countershaft nut and lock washer. This is best done with an impact wrench and the proper sized socket. If you don't have access to an impact wrench, then use a socket extension and ratchet. To keep the engine from turning over while loosening, place a 2x4 or similar through the rear wheel above the swingarm. If your countershaft nut or lockwasher is a one-time-use piece of hardware- Replace it! Or, if the lock washer is not in good condition- Replace it! Failure to replace these components per your service manuals instruction may result in serious damage to your motorcycle and/or bodily injury. If the nut is stubborn, be assured that it is a standard thread and does loosen to the left as normal. What will help break it loose is tapping it with a socket on an extension and a hammer to break it loose just by hitting toward it on the extension. After hitting it firmly a few times try loosening it.

6. Put the bike in gear and break loose the rear sprocket nuts. Do not loosen them past the ends of the stud and do not remove them yet. Pull in the clutch and rotate the rear wheel to gain access to all of the sprocket nuts.

7. Slide a 2x4 or equivalent underneath the rear tire so that it barely touches the bottom side of the tire. Loosen and remove the rear axle. Slide the wheel forward and remove the chain from the sprocket and remove the wheel assembly from the bike.

8. You may now remove the sprocket nuts and existing rear sprocket from the carrier. Inspect the sprocket locknuts and replace them as per your service manual's instruction or if they are cross-threaded or worn. Install the new sprocket on the carrier and tighten the nuts to the required torque specification. The final tightening may be easier once the wheel is reinstalled on the bike.

9. Remove the countershaft sprocket from the countershaft. Make note of whether the countershaft sprocket has a shoulder on the backside. If it does then you want the replacement sprocket to be installed with the same size shoulder on the same side. Install the new countershaft sprocket on the shaft and place the chain overtop of the sprocket. Install the countershaft washer and nut. You won't be able to tighten it fully yet. Failure to replace and reinstall these components per your service manuals instruction may result in serious damage to your motorcycle and/or bodily injury.

10. Loosen the chain adjustments and move them to the forward most position. 11. Reinstall the rear wheel by placing it in between the swingarm (on top of the 2x4 support), all the way forward, swinging the chain over the sprocket. (You may have to rotate the wheel slightly to get everything lined up; and this may require you temporarily putting the bike back into neutral.) Then slide the axle through. Be sure that the wheel spacers are in place and that the brake rotor is in between the two brake pads.

12. Tighten the axle nut hand tight.

13. Put the bike back into gear and fully tighten the rear sprocket nuts and countershaft nut to specification.

14. Move the chain adjustments back to tension the chain per your owners' manual. The slack should be measured on the bottom side of the chain and you should be able to freely move the chain a minimum of 2" form the top of the chain to the bottom of the chain. It is very important that you spend the extra time and make sure that the chain tension settings are even on both sides so that the rear wheel in running straight and true. If the rear wheel is not true, premature wear of you chain and sprockets may occur as well as handling problems can result. When you have the tension set and the adjusters snug tighten the rear axle.

15. Check the chain tension again. If it's not correct, make sure the bike is in gear, loosen the rear axle; place the handle of a ratchet in between the chain and the sprocket at the topside of the sprocket, and put a small amount of tension on the chain by holding the rear wheel and rotating it backwards. While you have this tension on the chain, tighten the rear axle. Remove the ratchet from the chain/sprocket and check the tension on the chain.

16. If it's still incorrect, loosen the rear axle and readjust the settings. Get the tension correct before going on.

17. Replace the countershaft cover and any other components and bodywork in the reverse order that you removed it.

18. Remove the bike from the stand and ride.

If you are installing a new chain at the same time, or just replacing a only the chain, a couple of tips to keep in mind are as follows, and would be done immediately after Step 10 above, or just in this order if replacing the chain only.

10a. Break the existing chain with a proper chain breaker or by grinding off two pin heads and pry the sideplate off.

10b. Attach the new chain to the end of the old chain temporarily with a zip-tie or piece of wire and pull the old chain from the bottom side which will feed the new chain through the frame and over the front countershaft.

10c. Wrap the new chain around the top and bottom of the rear sprocket so they meet in the middle backside. Where they meet will be where you need to cut the new chain and install the masterlink. Remember that you must link an inner link to another inner link with the masterlink

10d. At this point it will look like the chain is long as too much slack. This is fine because your chain adjusters should be in the forward position. What you want to be sure of is that you have at least the minimum amount of slack at this point. If you don't, then you need to go to the next link and move the adjusters back slightly to make sure will be able to take up the slack of the extra two links.

10e. When you decide the optimum chain length for slack and adjustment, cut the chain, and follow the chain manufacturers instructions for installing their masterlink

In order to get the longest life from your chain and sprockets it is very important that you follow the chain manufacturers guidelines for break-in, adjustment, and lubrication intervals. A well-maintained chain is the key to a long lasting, safe drivetrain.

If you have any questions regarding the installation of your new sprockets, you may email us at phil@moto-heaven.com or call local 814-489-3379, toll free 877-416-0969, or cell- 484-951-3128.

Please remember to always wear a helmet and all the safety gear available to you.

Live to Ride. Ride to Live.

I hope that we have provided you some information herewith to make riding and working on your ride more enjoyable. Please feel free to leave us some feedback on these tips, or any service related subject, via email or through our Testimonials page on our website, www.moto-heaven.com.

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