When should I change my chain and/or sprockets?
-If you already read the question 'I've broken teeth on my sprocket...' replace them. Obviously, if your bike has a 'wear indicator' label on the chain adjustments its pretty easy to figure. Or if you have reached the back of the available adjustment then replace your chain. The noise a worn chain and sprocket will make is a sure tell-tale sign things are worn out and need replacing before a failure occurs. However, a worn chain may not make any strange or loud noises that you notice. So, there a couple of other things you can do to determine whether its time for a change. Your bike manual should provide you specifics on measuring a certain number of links and comparing that dimension to an allowable limit. If it doesn't, a very easy test it to pull on the chain on the very backside on the sprocket. If you can pull the chain away from the sprocket more than a 1/16" or so then you should consider changing the parts. What this test will show you is how worn the sprocket teeth are from their original dimension. When new, there should be hardly a noticeable difference in the fit of the chain rollers in the sprocket teeth- meaning there shouldn't be any forward-to-back motion. And, since your chain condition and amount of stretch determines your sprocket wear this tells you whether they are worn significantly. Sprockets don't wear themselves out. Worn chains wear sprockets out. The dimension of the chain determines the dimension of the sprocket teeth and the parts wear together. So, although a new chain won't have a huge effect on the premature wear of a sprocket, a new sprocket put on a worn chain will wear extremely fast. The better, stronger chain you can use the longer all the parts will last because the stronger chain will resist elongation and thereby sprocket wear. For these reasons, it is definitely a good idea to replace all the parts at the same time for optimum longevity.


Why convert to 520 chain and sprockets?
-Performance. Depending on the bike and what size you are converting from you can gain 4-8 hp just by putting a good quality 520 chain and lighter sprockets on the bike. The lighter chain and sprockets create less centrifugal force which let the motor spin them up easier. And for stunting, the smaller chain causes less drag. For these reasons, this is the first thing thats done to race-prep a bike. As well as the lower cost and the availability of spare parts at the track. The only thing you have to be cautious about is getting the properly rated chain for your bike. Most good 520 chains are rated to 750cc but there are ones rated to 1000cc also. And the only thing you should be warned about is that you can expect a little faster wear, especially on bigger bikes, because the drive forces are getting spread over a slightly smaller surface area.


I keep breaking teeth on sprockets. -Or- Every aluminum alloy sprocket I put on doesn't last. Why?
-Broken teeth or fast sprocket wear are a result of a worn chain. Other than high miles on a chain, common factors in premature chain wear are a lack of cleaning and lubricating and/or not enough slack in the chain.(you know- maintenance). When a chain becomes so stretched that it doesn't fit in between each tooth of the sprocket you will have tooth breakage as the chain comes in contact with the teeth at the wrong place at very high speed. See 'When should I change my chain and/or Sprockets', above.


Can you get chains in any size?
-Just about. We stock all the popular sizes and finishes of chains and up to 150 link chains and can have cut any length in certain types.


Can I change the chain and/or sprockets on my bike myself?
-If you work on your car then you can change the sprockets on your bike provided you have the correct tools. Changing a chain is fairly simple as well but takes the use of a chain tools(which we have available) that are specifically designed to break and chain and then rivet the masterlink together safely and securely. Here is a link to some helpful Installation Tips that will give you an idea of what it take to do the job and maybe what tools you'll need. If you need to have a shop change the parts for you they shouldn't charge more than a couple of hours labor to do so.


Why does my chain have a tight spot?
-As you rotate the rear wheel to lubricate your chain or to check the slack you should always check the tension at several spots along the chain. A chain can develop a tight spot if a link or links are bound. This usually occurs because a seal has failed and moisture has gotten into the chain and rusted it thereby freezing it. It left this way it will break as this is now the weakest link, literally. Most often though a chain will actually have a loose spot. This commonly occurs from not having enough slack in the chain and it being stretched by the forces of the suspension pulling on it. On most bikes, and especially modern sportbikes, the geometry of the suspension and drivetrain cause the slack to be taken out of the chain as the suspension compresses. So, if you don't have enough slack so that you still have slack when the suspension is fully compressed you will stretch the chain when the suspension bottoms out, either from two-up riding and hitting a bump or putting all the weight of the bike on the rear wheel- as in wheeling. The worst thing you can do in this case is just keep tightening the chain to take the slack out of it as it stretches.


Do I have to lubricate a sealed type ( O-ring, X-ring, W-ring ) chain?
-Absolutely! You should follow the manufacturers instructions in order to get the longest life from your chain and your sprockets. Lubricating your chain helps keep moisture off it- preventing corrosion, helps keep the seals pliable and working good, and aids in grabbing dirt and grime and flinging it off- preventing it from tearing up the seals. Its best to lube your chain after riding- when it warm and the lube can penetrate better. It also makes it easier to wipe the excess off. The best lubricant to use on a sealed type chain is a non-aerosol type.

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