Helpful Installation Tips

The Gearing Ratio is is the calculation between the front and rear sprocket sizes and gives you what is your 'Final Dive Ratio'.

This number is the rear sprocket tooth number divided by the front sprocket size. You can use a 'Gear Ratio Chart' to easily view what effective changes will be when changing the front and/or rear sprockets. For instance, by looking at the chart you will see that a 15/45 ratio (3.00) is the same as a 16/48 combo. And by comparing the different ratios you can calculate for your model how many teeth to go up on the back to equal what you've gone down in the front for example.

-A Wheelie Kit is a set of sprockets (front and rear) that change the final drive ratio to create more torque and raise the rpm's slightly to increase the ease at which you can loft the front wheel. This ratio change will also increase acceleration for better holeshots and quicker roll-ons at every speed- in every gear. These kits can are offered in a Stage I and Stage II for most bikes.

The Stage I kit is the ideal setting for most bikes to obtain the maximum amount of torque and acceleration without sacrificing your top speed. The Stage II is about the maximum change for increased acceleration and torque that you can make without going to a longer chain. This setup would be better for someone who does more slow riding(acceleration, wheelies, etc.) than high speed riding. Both of these kits are designed to use your current length chain.

-These are Wheelie Kits but on the extreme side. These are for the extreme Stunt Junkie and come in a Street version and a Pro version. The Street version will still allow most bikes to go over 100mph (but still not for the highway), while the Pro setup is for stunt only bikes that don't see the street too much. These kits do require, and come with, a lengthened chain to accommodate the much larger rear sprocket.

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-Not Necessarily. Your only going to start loosing top speed when you lower the final drive ratio so much that the rpm's are raised into the revlimiter or past peak horsepower in top gear. And, in fact, you can gain some top speed by lowering the ratio slightly.

-Performance. Depending on the bike and what size you are converting from you can gain 4-8 hp just by putting a good quality 520 chain and lighter sprockets on the bike. The lighter chain and sprockets create less centrifugal force which let the motor spin them up easier. And for stunting, the smaller chain causes less drag. For these reasons, this is the first thing thats done to race-prep a bike. As well as the lower cost and the availability of spare parts at the track. The only thing you have to be cautious about is getting the properly rated chain for your bike. Most good 520 chains are rated to 750cc but there are ones rated to 1000cc also. And the only thing you should be warned about is that you can expect a little faster wear, especially on bigger bikes, because the drive forces are getting spread over a slightly smaller surface area.

-No. However, if we don't carry a particular size sprocket for a particular bike we will be happy to make it for you. What we do carry are the popular sizes for the modern sport bikes, Conversion kits, Wheelie Kits, Stunt drive kits for these bikes.

-Yes. Given some specific information we can make any sprocket in any size.

Broken teeth or fast sprocket wear are a result of a worn chain. Other than high miles on a chain, common factors in premature chain wear are a lack of cleaning and lubricating and/or not enough slack in the chain.(you know- maintenance). When a chain becomes so stretched that it doesn't fit in between each tooth of the sprocket you will have tooth breakage as the chain comes in contact with the teeth at the wrong place at very high speed. See 'When should I change my chain and/or Sprockets', above.

-Just about. We stock all the popular sizes and finishes of chains and up to 150 link chains and can have cut any length in certain types.

If you work on your car then you can change the sprockets on your bike provided you have the correct tools. Changing a chain is fairly simple as well but takes the use of a chain tools(which we have available) that are specifically designed to break and chain and then rivet the masterlink together safely and securely. Here is a link to some helpful Installation Tips that will give you an idea of what it take to do the job and maybe what tools you'll need. If you need to have a shop change the parts for you they shouldn't charge more than a couple of hours labor to do so.

If you already read the question 'I've broken teeth on my sprocket...' replace them. Obviously, if your bike has a 'wear indicator' label on the chain adjustments its pretty easy to figure. Or if you have reached the back of the available adjustment then replace your chain. The noise a worn chain and sprocket will make is a sure tell-tale sign things are worn out and need replacing before a failure occurs. However, a worn chain may not make any strange or loud noises that you notice. So, there a couple of other things you can do to determine whether its time for a change. Your bike manual should provide you specifics on measuring a certain number of links and comparing that dimension to an allowable limit. If it doesn't, a very easy test it to pull on the chain on the very backside on the sprocket. If you can pull the chain away from the sprocket more than a 1/16" or so then you should consider changing the parts. What this test will show you is how worn the sprocket teeth are from their original dimension. When new, there should be hardly a noticeable difference in the fit of the chain rollers in the sprocket teeth- meaning there shouldn't be any forward-to-back motion. And, since your chain condition and amount of stretch determines your sprocket wear this tells you whether they are worn significantly.

Sprockets don't wear themselves out. Worn chains wear sprockets out. The dimension of the chain determines the dimension of the sprocket teeth and the parts wear together. So, although a new chain won't have a huge effect on the premature wear of a sprocket, a new sprocket put on a worn chain will wear extremely fast. The better, stronger chain you can use the longer all the parts will last because the stronger chain will resist elongation and thereby sprocket wear. For these reasons, it is definitely a good idea to replace all the parts at the same time for optimum longevity.

As you rotate the rear wheel to lubricate your chain or to check the slack you should always check the tension at several spots along the chain. A chain can develop a tight spot if a link or links are bound. This usually occurs because a seal has failed and moisture has gotten into the chain and rusted it thereby freezing it. It left this way it will break as this is now the weakest link, literally. Most often though a chain will actually have a loose spot. This commonly occurs from not having enough slack in the chain and it being stretched by the forces of the suspension pulling on it. On most bikes, and especially modern sportbikes, the geometry of the suspension and drivetrain cause the slack to be taken out of the chain as the suspension compresses. So, if you don't have enough slack so that you still have slack when the suspension is fully compressed you will stretch the chain when the suspension bottoms out, either from two-up riding and hitting a bump or putting all the weight of the bike on the rear wheel- as in wheeling. The worst thing you can do in this case is just keep tightening the chain to take the slack out of it as it stretches.

Absolutely! You should follow the manufacturers instructions in order to get the longest life from your chain and your sprockets. Lubricating your chain helps keep moisture off it- preventing corrosion, helps keep the seals pliable and working good, and aids in grabbing dirt and grime and flinging it off- preventing it from tearing up the seals. Its best to lube your chain after riding- when it warm and the lube can penetrate better. It also makes it easier to wipe the excess off. The best lubricant to use on a sealed type chain is a non-aerosol type.

-Yes. Unless your bikes speedometer runs off the front wheel, changing things like the gear ratio or even the air pressure in your tire will effect your speedo readout. However, these changes can be compensated for and you can get a correct reading with the installation of a Speedometer Calibrator.

We cannot recommend or condone the use of any parts we sell for use in any illegal riding or behavior. That any stunts referenced are performed by professionals on closed courses under supervision of safety personnel and should not be attempted or recreated by you under any other conditions but the same. And in doing so you solely assume all responsibility for damage or destruction to yourself, your property, or the property of others. By purchasing any parts from us you agree to these terms and statements.

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If an item that we normally stock is temporarily out of stock, your order will be deemed 'back-ordered' and you will be notified by e-mail or phone. You will have the option of having any other item(s) in your order shipped immediately or have your entire order held until the back-ordered item(s) arrive. In addition, we may make special or separate shipping arrangements for the back-ordered item(s) with you.

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All products we sell will be warranted against defects in materials and workmanship. If they arrive with any defects, they can be returned and will be replaced. No other warranty is expressed or implied. Because we cannot control the application or use of the products we sell, the buyer assumes all risk for any and all damage and or injury to himself or a third party, by virtual failure of these products. We make no warranty or guarantee as to the products distributed or otherwise sold by us (non Thrust Company products), expressed or implied, including without limitations any warranties or merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Individual manufacturer warranties will be affective as stated in the materials and documentation supplied with those items. We cannot recommend or condone the use of any parts we sell for use in any illegal riding or behavior. That any stunts referenced are performed by professionals on closed courses under supervision of safety personnel and should not be attempted or recreated by you under any other conditions but the same. And in doing so you solely assume all responsibility for damage or destruction to yourself, your property, or the property of others. By purchasing any parts from us you agree to these terms and statements.

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We have a very liberal return policy. We don't want you to settle for something that is different than you were expecting. If you are not 100% satisfied with your order, you may return any merchandise that is unused, in the original packaging, and with the original labels attached, for a full credit, refund, or exchange for up to 30 days from shipment. After a 30-day period, all sales are considered complete and final. After the 30-day period, a re-stocking fee may be charged on refunds. Re-stocking fee will never exceed $25.00 on stock items.

Custom orders are welcome. However, any custom order items returned will incur a minimum 20% re-stocking fee. The re-stocking fee will be based on whether the product(s) can be easily re-sold. If an item(s) was sent to you incorrectly it may be returned at no charge. We reserve the right to look at all cases on an individual basis.